Using a thorough home inspection checklist: 200 things to check is one of the smartest moves any buyer can make before closing on a property. According to the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), nearly 1 in 3 home inspections uncover at least one major defect — problems that can cost tens of thousands of dollars to fix if missed. Whether you're a first-time buyer or a seasoned investor, this guide walks you through every critical area of the home so nothing slips through the cracks.
A home inspection is not just a formality — it's your best opportunity to understand exactly what you're buying. The average home inspection costs $300–$500, a fraction of the cost of repairing a failed HVAC system ($5,000–$12,000) or a compromised foundation (often $10,000–$100,000+). Use this best home inspection checklist as your complete home buying protection plan.
And once you know the home checks out, don't leave money on the table — visit HauzPlace to compare mortgage rates and real estate financing options from top lenders before you close.
1. Exterior & Structural Checks (Items 1–50)
The outside of a home tells you a lot about how well it's been maintained. Start your home inspection checklist guide here, because exterior issues often signal deeper structural problems.
Roof (Items 1–20)
- Check age and remaining lifespan of roofing material (asphalt shingles last 20–30 years)
- Look for missing, cracked, or curling shingles
- Inspect flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights for rust or gaps
- Check gutters and downspouts for proper slope and debris buildup
- Inspect the fascia and soffit boards for rot or damage
- Look for moss or algae growth indicating moisture retention
- Check for sagging or uneven roof planes (possible structural issue)
- Verify attic ventilation is adequate (prevents moisture damage)
- Confirm number of shingle layers — more than two may require full replacement
- Inspect skylights for proper sealing and cracks
Foundation & Grading (Items 21–40)
- Look for horizontal or stair-step cracks in the foundation (major red flags)
- Check that soil and landscaping slope away from the foundation at least 6 inches over 10 feet
- Inspect for efflorescence (white mineral deposits) indicating water intrusion
- Look for bowing or bulging foundation walls
- Check window wells for proper drainage
- Inspect exposed wood near soil level for termite or rot damage
- Verify basement walls for water staining or mold
Driveway, Walkways & Exterior Walls (Items 41–50)
- Check driveway for large cracks or heaving (indicates drainage or freeze-thaw issues)
- Inspect siding for cracks, gaps, or missing sections
- Check exterior paint for peeling, bubbling, or chalking
- Verify caulking around windows and doors is intact
- Inspect decks and porches for structural integrity, rot, and proper ledger attachment
- Check retaining walls for leaning or crumbling
Ready to Buy? Don't Overpay on Your Mortgage
Once your inspection clears, compare rates from 50+ lenders in minutes. A 0.5% rate difference on a $400,000 loan saves you over $40,000 over 30 years.
Compare Mortgage Rates2. Interior Systems: Plumbing, Electrical & HVAC (Items 51–120)
These are the most expensive systems to repair or replace. Your home inspection checklist tips should prioritize these items above all others.
Plumbing (Items 51–80)
- Check water pressure at multiple faucets (40–60 psi is normal)
- Run all faucets simultaneously to test flow and drainage speed
- Inspect under sinks for leaks, corrosion, or amateur repairs
- Check water heater age (typical lifespan: 8–12 years for tank, 15–20 for tankless)
- Look for rust-colored water indicating old galvanized pipes
- Flush every toilet and check for rocking, running, or slow flushing
- Inspect visible pipes in basement or crawlspace for corrosion or insulation
- Check for polybutylene pipes (recalled due to failure risk) in homes built 1978–1995
- Verify that the main water shutoff valve operates correctly
- Check the water heater's pressure relief valve and drain pan
Electrical (Items 81–100)
- Identify the panel type — Federal Pacific and Zinsco panels are known fire hazards
- Check that the electrical panel is properly labeled and has no double-tapped breakers
- Test every outlet with a plug-in tester for proper grounding
- Verify GFCI outlets in all wet areas (bathrooms, kitchen, garage, exterior)
- Check for aluminum wiring in homes built between 1965–1973 (fire risk)
- Ensure smoke detectors are present on every level and in each bedroom
- Verify carbon monoxide detectors near sleeping areas
- Check for exposed wiring or amateur DIY electrical work in attic and basement
- Confirm ceiling fans and light fixtures are properly secured
- Test all bathroom exhaust fans — they should vent outside, not into the attic
HVAC (Items 101–120)
- Ask for the age and service history of the furnace and air conditioner
- Run the heating system and verify all rooms receive warm air
- Run the AC and check that it brings temperatures down within 15–20 minutes
- Inspect ductwork for gaps, disconnections, or mold
- Check the air filter condition — a dirty filter suggests poor maintenance
- Verify heat exchanger is not cracked (carbon monoxide leak risk)
- Check flue pipes for proper venting and rust
- Inspect the condensate drain line on the AC unit
3. Interior Spaces & Finishes (Items 121–180)
Once major systems check out, go room by room. This section of your home buying inspection covers everything from floors to ceilings.
Kitchen (Items 121–140)
- Test all appliances — dishwasher, range, oven, microwave, refrigerator
- Run the garbage disposal and check for vibration or leaks
- Inspect cabinet doors, hinges, and drawer slides
- Check countertops for cracks, burns, or water damage near the sink
- Verify that the exhaust hood vents properly to the exterior
- Look under the sink for plumbing leaks and evidence of pest activity
- Check the backsplash for cracked or missing grout (moisture intrusion point)
Bathrooms (Items 141–160)
- Press on tiles around the tub and shower — soft spots indicate water damage behind walls
- Check caulking around tub, shower, and toilet for cracks or mold
- Test the shower pressure and water temperature range
- Inspect grout lines for staining or missing sections
- Check that the exhaust fan works and vents outside
- Look for floor softness near the toilet base (indicates subfloor rot)
- Verify that medicine cabinets and mirrors are properly secured
Bedrooms, Living Areas & Basement (Items 161–180)
- Open and close every window — check locks, balance, and ease of operation
- Check all interior doors for proper latching and signs of sticking (foundation shifts)
- Walk every floor looking for soft spots, squeaks, or uneven areas
- Inspect ceilings for water stains, cracks, or sagging
- Check walls for cracks wider than 1/4 inch (potential structural issue)
- Inspect attic access for insulation depth — current standard is R-38 to R-60
- Look for evidence of pest or rodent activity in basement and utility areas
- Test sump pump operation if present
- Check garage door auto-reverse safety feature
4. Home Inspection vs. Home Appraisal: What's the Difference?
Many buyers confuse these two. Both are critical for home buying and mortgage rates and real estate transactions — but they serve very different purposes.
| Factor | Home Inspection | Home Appraisal |
|---|---|---|
| Purpose | Evaluate condition of home systems & structure | Determine fair market value for the lender |
| Who orders it? | The buyer | The lender (paid for by buyer) |
| Average Cost | $300 – $500 | $400 – $600 |
| Required? | Optional but strongly recommended | Required for most mortgage loans |
| Duration | 2–4 hours on-site | 30–60 minutes on-site |
| Protects | The buyer's interests | The lender's investment |
| Can affect negotiation? | Yes — buyers can request repairs or price reductions | Yes — low appraisal can affect loan approval |
5. Environmental & Safety Checks (Items 181–200)
These final home inspection checklist tips cover health and safety hazards that standard inspectors may not always test for. Consider hiring specialists for these items, especially in older homes.
- Radon gas testing — the second leading cause of lung cancer in the U.S. (EPA recommends testing all homes)
- Lead paint testing — required disclosure in homes built before 1978
- Asbestos inspection — common in insulation, flooring, and tiles in homes built before 1980
- Mold testing — especially in basements, bathrooms, and areas with known moisture issues
- Well water quality test — if the home is on well water, test for bacteria, nitrates, and heavy metals
- Septic system inspection — essential for rural properties; full pump-out and inspection recommended every 3–5 years
- Termite or WDO inspection — required by many lenders; termite damage costs Americans $5 billion annually
- Oil tank sweep — underground tanks are a major liability in homes built before 1980
- Chinese drywall check — a concern in homes built 2001–2009 with imported materials
- EIFS/synthetic stucco inspection — prone to moisture trapping if improperly installed
💡 Pro Tip: Hire a Certified Inspector
Always hire an inspector certified by ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) or InterNACHI (International Association of Certified Home Inspectors). Ask for a sample report before hiring to ensure they provide thorough, photo-documented findings.
Frequently Asked Questions About Home Inspections
How long does a home inspection take?
A standard home inspection typically takes 2 to 4 hours for an average-sized home. Larger homes or older properties with more systems to evaluate can take 4 to 6 hours or more. Plan to attend the full inspection so you can ask questions as issues are discovered.
How much does a home inspection cost?
According to the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), the average home inspection costs between $300 and $500. Prices vary based on home size, age, location, and the inspector's experience. Specialty tests like radon or mold add $100–$300 each.
Can a buyer back out after a home inspection?
Yes. If your purchase agreement includes an inspection contingency — which most standard contracts do — you can back out of the deal or renegotiate if the inspection reveals significant problems, typically without losing your earnest money deposit. Always include this contingency clause.
What do home inspectors look for?
Home inspectors evaluate the structural and mechanical condition of a property. This includes the roof, foundation, walls, electrical systems, plumbing, HVAC, insulation, windows, and doors — essentially every major system and component of the home. They identify defects, safety hazards, and items needing repair.
Should I be present during the home inspection?
Absolutely. Being present during the inspection allows you to ask questions in real time, understand issues firsthand, and gain valuable knowledge about the home's systems and maintenance needs directly from the inspector. Never waive your right to attend the inspection.
6. What to Do After Your Home Inspection
Once you have your inspection report in hand, review it carefully with your real estate agent. Prioritize issues by severity — safety hazards and structural problems should be non-negotiable repair requests, while cosmetic issues can often be accepted as-is